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cb125 engine swap

Jarmo Kaila: There were also a number of cosmetic changes, such as silver frame, black hubs etc.

These should be used with a sealer such as Coppercoat gasket paint.

etc.). Mark Worsfold

Suzuki RV90.

Pam Falcioni PamFalcio@aol.com Honda part number for "Locknut Wrench 20x24" is 07716-0020100.

Pam Falcioni (Powroll Inc.): a short run-down of what we have for the early style (one piece head) 125's: May use CB750 liner if cases bored. Telephone: +1-562-490 0012 Bob Ginder: It being about as easy to fit a 550/750 unit into the 125 as to bore stock one for size, re-lining is also cost efficient. Jarmo Kaila: These have cast-in liners, are heavier construction and have more fin area. Applies to the sl bikes quite a bit. When I got my bike the tightener was screwed in all the way, resulting in so loose cam chain that it had jumped 2 teeth on the sprocket. Big bore kits (134/146/160/175cc), cam bearing repairs with precision bearing inserts, Kong cranks, strokers using Honda 185/200 cranks, full service CNC machine shop services, some used TL parts.

To address the triple clamp offset issue I actually changed the whole front end for a unit from mid 70s Yamaha TY250. Jarmo Kaila: 9) How about oil and fuel requirements for the TL125?

Common cause of scrapping these motors is burnt cam bngs in head; repair service is available for this problem for above heads and others. Differencies between bikes are mostly attributed to different metal plate materials, although there is anecdotal evidence of different types of oil causing more or less sticking. My question(s) are. 3) Are other parts on the bike from other bikes (besides the immediate "family" of Hondas)? Web-page: http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/, Powroll Inc Pam Falcioni PamFalcio@aol.com Shift lever splines are the same as many other bikes. Jarmo Kaila:

I have now been using Silkolene Racelube (20W/50) for some time, and been very satisfied with the clutch action (due to unavailability I have not been able to try my first choice, the MC version of Mobil 1). The split heads have the mount lug to the rear of the valve cover. I can't notice any loss of top end from the retarded ignition (now even tried to compare on 4th gear WOT hill, less difference than I could time with a stopwatch).

that was used in the CB/CL/CT/SL/XL? The cam chain adjustment is very counter-intuitive, even if you have access to the Clymer service manual. Don't use silicone sealant on the top end rebuild. By You can figure it from original size and CR, and new size. document.write('Jarmo Kaila') A big bore kit obviously helps.

For more information see their homepage at http://www.mcreports.com/.

As mentioned earlier TL has a tendency to "fall into a turn", i.e. 4.) The early 2-piece heads have the 'proper' top-mounting point. Salam to all PW. This makes the engine less "snatchy" at low rpms, making it more difficult to stall. The TL125 was re-introduced in the '80s in Japan as model "Ihatovo". e-mail: mail@powroll.com Big bore or stroker kit should help.

Set the ignition between these points and start experimenting, changing the timing little bit at a time until you are satisfied. Jarmo Kaila: The biggest displacement anybody pushed the TL in the past that I've personally heard of is 199cc (=65.5mm bore x 59.0mm stroke). I now have a big bore kit in my TL125, and the difference in engine response is amazing. Especially advisable if you install one of the big bore kits. e-mail: info@sammymiller.co.uk

BG from larger motors will overhang some smaller crankcase bases but are still functional. It was made for a few (3?) I do not wish to unnecessarily prolonging the debate, but I would like to illustrate a point I made on the Message Board:

651663Wheeler'192' jug2003, 5, 6, 8 b.j.racing@worldnet.att.net

IMHO nobody should try competitive riding on a TL without one.

Speed & Sport has commissioned a batch of fiberglass replicas of the original TL125 fenders.

Both operations also improve the clutch action, the start of clutch slip begins more progressive.

So although TL125 is quite easy to start it is probably a good idea to remove the spring from the right hand footpeg. You can also put the stroker with either one of the bore kits (135cc w/ stroker = 160cc, 145cc w/stroker = 175cc). Also, occasionally remove the clutch cover and clean the oil slinger. Hoyt McKagen batwings@i-plus.net 5.)

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